Final Thoughts

As you know by now—if you didn’t already—the process of overcoming separation anxiety involves a great deal of commitment from the owner and from the trainer. Take it from me that at the end of the day, your creativity, persistence and understanding of the client and the dog are what will allow you to get through the protocol and resolve the case. Sometimes you won’t see the exact precursor to anxiety, you will have to go with your intuition and push a little. Sometimes you’ll get it right, sometimes you’ll get it wrong, but as long as you proceed with caution, you can move forward without damage to the overall protocol. When moving through the steps, look for the victories, however tiny, and capitalize on them. Let your clients know what great strides they are making even if they see only seconds of improvement. Seconds make up minutes, which make up hours. Any forward movement is a vast improvement in a separation anxiety dog.

I can’t emphasize strongly enough how utterly workable I find this disorder when it’s handled properly. I have had my fair share of difficult cases, including some that weren’t resolved, but for the most part, even though some cases took considerable time, by far the majority were successes. I urge you to begin taking on these cases. Desperate owners and dogs need you—and helping them is more rewarding than you can imagine.

Appendix 1
Articles and Handouts for Clients

In my practice I provide all of my clients four handouts. These are:

1. A separation anxiety overview.
2. A listing of eight important things to keep in mind during the treatment process.
3. Learning theory basics.
4. Teaching the go to mat behavior.

Handout #1. Separation Anxiety Overview

From the mildest case to the severest, separation anxiety as a disorder has one underlying commonality: panic. Your dog isn’t acting out from spite, he isn’t annoyed about your absence, and he isn’t trying to punish you for going shopping without him. He is so panicked about being left alone that he can’t control himself.

Imagine this scenario. You are driving through a green light, casual as you like, minding your own business. Suddenly a car comes flying through the opposing red light, right at you. You slam on your brakes. The car swerves, misses you by a hair’s breadth, then proceeds to speed away. Sitting there, gasping, you notice your heart racing. Your hands shake a little.

Now ask yourself this: In the moment the car hurled toward you, could you have willed yourself to relax? Could you have ordered your heart not to pound? Of course not. You don’t have control over the panic that overtakes your body in a situation like that. Nobody does. The brain floods the body with adrenaline to trigger its emergency response. This is what your dog goes through each and every time he is left alone, however illogical, excessive and disconnected from the reality of the situation that response is.

Your dog can’t just “get a grip.” But he can get better. How? In time, through a type of training called desensitization, your dog will learn that absences need not be a reason to panic.

What you and your dog are experiencing is no anomaly. Separation anxiety affects as many as 17% of the approximately 78 million dogs in the United States.

Like us, dogs form strong social bonds, which is why the typical symptoms displayed with separation anxiety are those a dog would use to avoid being separated from his family: vocalizing, pacing, scratching and Houdini-type escape attempts. As you are probably acutely aware, these symptoms can bring about numerous problems, like complaints from neighbors, costly bills for destroyed property and frightening phone calls about your dog being loose in the neighborhood. Likely you have sought help at this point because you and your dog can’t go on the way things are.

Again, your dog can get better. Three out of four dogs with separation anxiety can be completely relieved of the disorder. But the brutal truth is that, compared to the treatment of many other behavior problems, the rate of progress with separation anxiety is slow. You need to know this up front; it will be the most difficult and frustrating part of the treatment for you, because you will see only gradual and minimal progress in the beginning. The learning curve for dogs with separation anxiety can be almost flat during the first few weeks of behavior modification, and only starts to accelerate after diligent adherence to the plan for some time.

Many dog owners give up within the first few weeks. They decide the program isn’t working when, in fact, this is when the dog’s most important learning happens.

Don’t give up. Arm yourself with patience and persist with your dog’s treatment.

Handout #2. Eight Things to Keep in Mind

1. It’s not personal. Your dog isn’t acting out because he is mad at you or to spite you. He has no control over his anxiety or the way he shows it. Even if your dog is perfectly house-trained, his urination or defecation during your absence isn’t a way to get back at you for leaving him. He is wetting himself in fear.

2. Logic doesn’t apply. While it seems logical to you and me that your dog should understand in time that you always come back (since you always do), he won’t. And he won’t get over it if you just leave him to his own devices. In fact, a large percentage of dogs get worse as time goes by when the problem is left untreated.

3. Punishment is forbidden. Punishing your dog for chewing the couch, barking, peeing, etc. won’t help and will likely make the separation anxiety worse. Refrain at all costs, however angry you are that the antique couch is now a pile of stuffing. Your dog has no idea your anger has anything to do with his behavior and any punishment will only serve to damage your relationship with your dog.

4. Aversive methods backfire. Never use shock or spray collars. For example, if barking is one of your dog’s symptoms, using a bark collar to prevent your dog from making noise while left alone is not the solution. Even if his fear of pain from the collar overrides his panic response to your absence, the experience will teach your dog that being alone is even scarier than he thought. Consequently, the fallout damage from using a bark collar can be huge.

5. Flexibility prevails. It’s only natural that the peace and quiet of your long-suffering neighbors and the preservation of your furnishings are at the forefront of your mind. But please also keep in mind that your dog is suffering deeply and that ending his suffering must be a priority as well. For this reason, don’t get attached to set time lines. Instead, find temporary management alternatives like daycare or an all-day dog walker so you can allow yourself the time to make progress.

6. Patience is all-important. Understandably, you want to know when your dog’s treatment will be finished, but nobody can predict that with any certainty. Every dog learns at a different rate, and much of the responsibility rests with you. What can be said with certainty is this: If you put in enough time on your exercises and follow the protocols carefully, your dog’s progress will be faster.

7. Drugs or herbs can help. Make sure you know your dog’s general state of health and consult with your veterinarian before putting your dog on any kind of medication. Whether you choose to use a supplement or pharmacological intervention, your veterinarian should know that your dog has separation anxiety and that you are embarking on treatment. In some cases, the use of holistic remedies or medication makes sense in the treatment of separation anxiety.

8. Food is a tool. Separation anxiety-induced anorexia in dogs is common. This program makes use of treats and/or your dog’s regular food rations, and you might worry about how that will work when your dog won’t eat when left alone. No need for concern. Food will be used to help your dog learn to love a confinement area, but the program will not rely on food to be successful later.

Ready to begin your treatment plan? Simply put, the plan will involve training your dog to feel okay about being left alone. We will achieve this gradually through a process that includes confidence-building exercises, departure and absence exercises, exercise and nutrition, and a few other things.

Walking this path will be tough for a time, but can also be fun. And the more fun you are able to have with the exercises, the more quickly the process will go. So have patience and be kind to both yourself and your dog. Not only are you doing the best you can to salvage the couch and prevent the neighbors from egging your door, you are giving your dog the best possible chance to have a life free from the debilitating fear that currently turns every absence into a nightmare for him.

Handout #3. Learning Theory Basics

One of the most difficult aspects of dog training is realizing that progress doesn’t happen overnight. Changing your dog’s behavior is a slow and gradual process that yields measurable results over time. We humans grant ourselves the luxury of learning things gradually. We read at the See Spot Run level for years before we attempt War
and Peace, for example. Why not extend our dogs the same courtesy?

Being patient with and enjoying the process of training are the two most important qualities you can cultivate if you want good results from this (or any) training program.

Dogs learn through repetition and reward. Behaviors that are rewarded will increase in frequency. The following is a reminder list of the some of the rules of dog training. Each rule applies to the training of any behavior. Understanding these and following them will make your training much more successful. Above all, try to have some fun with your dog as you train!

• Timing is everything: Better to let a behavior go unrewarded than to reward it late.
• Raise criteria gradually: If your dog is making mistakes often, back up a step until he gets it right.
• Don’t panic at regression: Sometimes you think your dog has got it down pat, but when it comes to dog training, taking two steps forward and one step back is normal.
• Vary the motivator: Don’t use the same treats every day. Novelty is priceless.
• What’s working: Ask yourself what behaviors are working for your dog. What’s getting him what he wants? Are those the kinds of behaviors you like? If you don’t like the behavior, don’t reward it.
• Patience is a virtue: True in general and especially true in dog training. Enjoy the process and focus on the small steps of progress rather than the distance to your final goal, great as it sometimes can seem. Allow your dog to learn at his own pace, and give yourself that license, too. Training should be fun and simple, and when it’s not, stop. You can return to it again another time when you feel more relaxed and ready to give it another go.

Handout #4 Teaching go to mat

Why teach go to mat? First and foremost, the exercise is a useful tool for separation anxiety treatment, because your dog learns that moving away from you can be a positive experience. Eventually, when your dog is really good at the exercise, you can ask him to go to his mat for a variety of reasons. As you have created such a positive association with his bed, your dog will feel confident about complying with your request and comfortable once he is there.

Getting your dog to go to his mat is simple, but as with all behaviors you must teach it gradually. You start out standing next to your dog’s bed and using a lure, but slowly, over several repetitions, you stop using the lure and move farther away.

Before you begin: Chop up some yummy treats to the size of a pea for medium-to-large dogs, and half that for small dogs. Get your dog’s comfy bed or blanket ready—and be sure to use the same bed in the same location each time. (Eventually you can use other beds and/or move the bed around, but right now we keep it simple.)

Step 1: Luring your dog onto the mat

1. Stand just in front of the mat, and hold a treat in your hand without showing it upfront.
2. Hold your hand with the treat in front of your dog’s nose and lure him to the bed and into a down position.
3. Once your dog is on his bed and lying down, praise him (or click the clicker, if you use one), and give him the treat.
4. Repeat the exercise at least five times. After five successful trials, move on to Step 2.

Step 2: Fading the lure, but use hand signals

1. With your empty hand at his nose in the same position and manner as if you had a treat in it, prompt the dog to the mat and into a down. (Remember: Don’t physically push your dog down, just use your hand to show him what you want him to do.)
2. When your dog lies down, give him a treat.
3. Repeat the exercise about ten times. Once you see your dog anticipating your hand request and rushing to his bed, move on to Step (He should get at least eight out of the ten repetitions before moving on to the next step. If not, keep practicing.)

Step 3: Adding in the verbal cue

1. Tell your dog “Mat!” Pause for a moment. (Choose whatever cue word or phrase you want, just stay consistent with it.)
2. Point your dog to the bed with your empty treat hand.
3. When your dog lies down, give him the treat.
4. Repeat the exercise about ten times. Once you see your dog anticipating your request and rushing to his bed, you can move on. (He should get at least eight out of the ten repetitions before moving on to the next step. If not, keep practicing.)

Now you are ready to use your hand signal as a regular pointing gesture. You can fade your hand signal altogether and use just the verbal if you prefer, but it isn’t necessary; sticking with a hand signal is perfectly fine.

When your dog jumps eagerly onto his bed and lies down, either from a subtle hand signal or the verbal cue alone, you can begin to move farther away from the bed and ask your dog to go to his mat from different distances and places. Be patient, though. It takes time to work up to that point, so do things in baby steps and always be prepared to go back to a slightly easier level as necessary.

Remember, this exercise should be fun for both you and your dog. Treat this as though you are teaching your dog how to high five or roll over. And if he really doesn’t seem to get it, don’t assume he can’t learn. You just need to break the steps down even further—or you need better treats! Don’t be afraid to break out the meatballs or the smelly cheese.

Keep it fun, light, and creative, and soon you will see results that will benefit your treatment plan tremendously.

Appendix 2
Initial Questionnaire

Date:

Client name/s:

Client address:

Dog’s name:

Breed type(s):

Dog’s age:

Age of dog when acquired and place dog was acquired from (shelter, breeder, etc.):

How many human members in your household? (Note # of males, females and age of children)

How many animal members in your household? (Note # of dogs, cats, and their ages)

If you have more than one dog in your household, are your dogs able to share food and toys without confrontation?

Has your dog always shown symptoms of separation anxiety?

If yes, describe whether the anxiety has improved, stayed the same, or worsened over time:

If no, indicate whatever precipitating events may have caused the separation anxiety:

Check any of the following symptoms your dog displays when left alone at home:

• Whining
• Barking
• Howling
• Urination/defecation
• Chewing/destruction
• Self-mutilation
• Pawing/destruction
• Drooling
• Panting
• Sweaty paws
• Pacing
• Excessive water consumption (upon return home)
• Trembling prior to departure
• Excessive greeting behaviors (upon return home)
• Anorexia
• Aggression

Describe any other symptoms you have witnessed:

Does your dog display signs of separation anxiety if you are in another room with the door closed?

Does your dog follow you from room to room?

How often do you leave your dog alone?

If your dog is being left alone, how long are the absences?

If your dog is being left alone, where does he/she stay? (i.e., a crate/the whole house/a bedroom)

If your dog is being left alone, will your dog eat treats/food/chewies/Kongs during absences?

Does your dog display signs of separation anxiety if others are present (i.e., a friend at your house)?

Does your dog display signs of separation anxiety if left alone in the car?

If your dog does experience separation anxiety while in the car, are the symptoms as severe as when left at home?

Have you ever done any crate training with your dog?

If yes, is your dog comfortable in a crate when you are home (describe if needed):

Can you close the bathroom door while taking a shower? If yes, where is your dog when you come out of the bathroom?

What type of exercise does your dog get, and how often?

Does your dog have any medical issues you are aware of?

List all medications your dog is currently taking.

If your dog has had any serious medical conditions in the past year, describe them and list any medications used.

Have you done any type of formal training with your dog? (Classes/private trainer, etc.)

Does your dog enjoy being with other dogs? If yes, how often is your dog around other dogs?

What types of cues will cause your dog to display anxiety? (i.e., picking up the keys/putting on your coat)

Does your dog display the same level of separation anxiety symptoms if left in the morning versus being left in the evening?

Are there any types of absences your dog appears to not get anxious about? (i.e., taking out the garbage, leaving the house in slippers, etc.)

What amount of time would you like to be able to leave your dog alone in the future? (i.e., # of hours)

Have you done any behavioral work concerning your dog’s separation anxiety before?

What does a typical 24-hour mid-week day entail for you and your dog?

What does a typical 24-hour weekend day entail for you and your dog?

Are you able to arrange your schedule to avoid leaving your dog alone for a few weeks or more?

Are you able to use a daycare, dog walker, dog sitter, or other service to keep your dog from having to experience absences for a while?

If you are currently using a dog walker, daycare, or other service to watch your dog, please provide their name:

Have you ever had a complaint from your neighbors regarding your dog’s separation anxiety?

Will your neighbors (or landlord) affect your ability to work on your dog’s separation anxiety? If yes, explain:

Who is your current veterinarian?

Have you spoken to your veterinarian about your dog’s separation anxiety? If yes, did he/she make any recommendations?

If your dog’s separation anxiety warrants pharmacological intervention, are you willing to discuss this with a veterinarian?

Is your dog sensitive to, fearful of, or anxious about noises?

If yes, list the types of noises that elicit a response from your dog:

Does your dog experience stress or anxiety during rain or thundershowers?

If yes, describe the behavior you observe during rain or thundershowers:

Do you have any other behavioral concerns about your dog? If yes, please explain:

What type of food do you feed your dog? (List brands, quantities, etc.)

Does your dog take any supplements or vitamins?

What are your goals for this separation anxiety training?

Appendix 3
Sample Treatment Plans

Two treatment plans are provided in Appendix Three. Treatment Plan #1 is the basic treatment plan that most all clients will follow. Treatment Plan #2 is a basic treatment plan that includes the use of the Treat & Train.

Treatment Plan #1

Phase One

Preparation

• Review house layout and set up an area to be used for training.
• Read all articles and written materials to familiarize yourself with the plan.
• Begin teaching the new cues of GO-TO-MAT and STAY (review handout in Appendix One).
• Acquire baby gate, x-pen or crate, and interactive feeding toys.

Go-to-Mat criteria steps

1. Lure a GO-TO-MAT from right in front of the bed, rewarding each time. Repeat until you get five successful trials in a row.
2. Use verbal cue and hand signal to get GO-TO-MAT from right in front of the bed, rewarding each successful trial. Repeat until you get ten successful trials in a row.
3. Use verbal cue and hand signal to get GO-TO-MAT from one to two feet away, rewarding each successful trial. Repeat until you get ten successful trials in a row.
4. Use verbal cue and hand signal to get GO-TO-MAT from three to four feet away, rewarding each successful trial. Repeat until you get ten successful trials in a row.

RELAX/STAY criteria steps

Step 1:

If the criteria seem too high or too low in the below steps, adjust them accordingly. Unless directed otherwise you will stand in place facing your dog. Read through the steps once before you do them, so you understand the body directions. Note that this phase does not take place in the confinement area.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for four seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step to the right and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step to the left and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step to the right and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step to the left and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take two steps back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for five seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and then turn right back around in place, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you clap your hands softly once, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you count out loud to five, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you clap your hands softly twice, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you count out loud to ten, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and then turn back in place, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you clap your hands softly three times, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back take half a step forward and then turn back in place, reward.

RELAX/STAY for five seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

Step 2:

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for five seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take five steps back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps to the right and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps to the left and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and take one step to the right and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and take one step to the left and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for seven seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and take three steps away (still in view) and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and walk three steps away, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back for five seconds and turn back around, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you clap your hands softly twice, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you kneel to the ground on one knee briefly in place and stand back up, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you count out loud to five, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you clap your hands softly twice, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk just past your dog (behind him slightly) and back into place, reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY for ten seconds, reward by tossing him a small jackpot of a few treats and end the session.

Step 3:

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take five steps away and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for seven seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk into another room slightly out of view for one second and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps to the right and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps to the left and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for twelve seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk out of view for two seconds, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you to an interior closet, open and close it quickly, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY for seven seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk out of view and count out loud for three seconds, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for ten seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk out of view for two seconds, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY for five seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back for ten seconds and turn back around, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you do three jumping jacks, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you kneel to the ground on both knees briefly in place and stand back up, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you kneel to the ground on both knees for two seconds in place and stand back up, reward.

RELAX/STAY for ten seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you clap your hands loudly twice, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk out of view and count out loud for five seconds, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY for five seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps away and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you to an interior closet, open and close it quickly, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take five steps away and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for fifteen seconds, reward by tossing a small jackpot of a few treats and end the session.

Continue along these lines until you reach a RELAX/STAY of fifteen seconds from five feet away.

Later in the coming phases you will strengthen the STAY to one minute while out of view.

Phase Two

Preparation

• Build the GO-TO-MAT and RELAX/STAY up from beginning stages to 30 seconds and ten steps away.
• Install the baby gate or x-pen if using and begin in-view desensitization.
• Begin introducing interactive feeding devices and teach the game FIND IT.

In-view criteria steps

Note that these are sample steps and the criteria are written based on a dog with a moderate stress level. Adjust the steps to the specific dog, but keep the pace of the steps to ensure progress. Work on each step until the dog is able to handle the criteria level before you move on to the next step. Never push the dog to the point of anxiousness. On the other hand, if the dog is completely uninterested and calm, increase the difficulty

Step 1, all exits in view:

The dog must be settled and content at each level before you proceed to the next. If he isn’t, stay at that level and repeat it until he is comfortable. Hang out after each return, so that each new exercise appears to be as close to a cold trial as possible. Vary the time increments, so each exit doesn’t jump in time; mix it up with some longer and some shorter increments.

Step 1 can be broken into two phases:

• Begin by baiting the confinement area with the dog’s favorite goodies. Allow him in and let him get into his food toys.
• Gradually step out and back in just standing alongside the baby gate. Allow the dog to settle before repeating this task. Spend plenty of time in the confinement area in between exiting.
• Repeat this task, increasing the time you spend outside the baby gate in increments of seconds at a time until you reach one minute.
• Vary the time increments so you have some shorter durations and some longer ones.
• If the dog shows any signs of stress, remain at that time level for a while until the dog is sufficiently desensitized to that plateau. Only then move on to the next task.

In the second phase, begin in the confinement area:

• Give the dog his interactive feeding toy and let him start to eat. Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area (while staying in view) and return after one minute. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds while the dog settles so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible.
• Repeat this task, increasing the time you spend outside the confinement area in increments of seconds and then minutes at a time until you reach a duration of 30 minutes.
• Vary the time increments so you have some shorter durations and some longer ones.
• If the dog shows any signs of stress, stay at that level until the dog is sufficiently desensitized to that plateau. Only then move on to the next task.
• Make sure that during this time the dog learns to run out of food in the interactive feeding toy and remain settled without it.

The dog should be relaxed and unfazed by the above absences before you proceed to the next step. This process is relatively quick for most dogs. If a dog is having difficulty, reward him for any increment of calm behavior in the confinement area to build duration.

Step 2, exits are in partially obstructed view:

Begin in the confinement area:

• Give the dog his interactive feeding toy and let him start to eat. Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area into an area partly obstructed from view, for example behind a kitchen counter or halfway into the threshold of a doorway. Return immediately and pause for 20 to 30 seconds while the dog settles so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible.
• Build duration in increments of minutes up to 30 minutes outside the confinement area while you stand in view but partially obstructed. Make sure you pause long enough between exits.
• Vary the time increments so you have some shorter durations and some longer ones.
• If the dog shows any signs of stress, stay at that level until the dog is sufficiently desensitized to that plateau. Only then move on to the next task.
• Make sure that during this time the dog runs out of food in the interactive feeding toy and can remain settled without it. Reward for calm if the dog is having difficulty with this task and make certain you fully desensitize the dog before you move on to the next task.

Phase Three

Preparation

• Use the GO-TO-MAT and RELAX/STAY cues as part of the non-follow routine regularly.
• Begin desensitization to out-of-view absences.
• Use interactive feeding devices and the game FIND IT for feeding in confinement area.
• Watch video to help determine baseline for future criteria setting.

Out-of-view criteria steps

Begin in the confinement area.

• Give the dog his interactive feeding toy and let him start to eat. Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area, go to an area entirely out of view, and return immediately. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible.
• Repeat this task, increasing in increments of seconds then minutes until you reach 30 minutes. Make sure you pause long enough between each exit.
• Vary the time increments so you have some shorter durations and some longer ones.
• If the dog shows any signs of stress, stay at that level until the dog is sufficiently desensitized to that plateau. Only then move on to the next task.
• Make sure that during this time if the dog runs out of food in the interactive feeding toy he can remain settled without it. Reward for calm if the dog is having difficulty with this task and make certain you fully desensitize the dog before you move on to the next task. (The Treat & Train can help significantly with out-of-view absences.)

Do the following steps once the dog has been fully desensitized to a 30-minute out-of-view absence in his confinement area both with and without food. Mix up the steps once you have accomplished some of the easier ones.

• Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area and walk halfway to the front door while carrying your keys, and return. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle completely so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat the task until the dog is entirely uninterested.
• Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area and walk all the way to the front door without touching it while carrying your keys, and return. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat the task until the dog is entirely uninterested.
• Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area and walk all the way to the front door and touch the door, but not the door knob, while carrying your keys. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as much like a cold trial as possible. Repeat the task until the dog is entirely uninterested.
• Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area and walk all the way to the front door, touch the doorknob, still carrying your keys, and return. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat the task until the dog is entirely uninterested.
• Walk out of the baby-gated area and walk to the front door. Crack the front door open slightly, close it, and return immediately. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat the task until the dog is entirely uninterested.
• Walk out of the baby-gated area to the front door. Open the front door halfway and close it, returning immediately. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat the task until the dog is entirely uninterested.
• Walk out of the baby-gated area to the front door. Open the front door all the way, close it, and return immediately. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat the task until the dog is entirely uninterested.

By the end of this phase, you should be able to open and close the front door about 15 to 20 times in the span of 30 minutes without getting any stressed reaction from the dog.

Phase Four

Preparation

• Use the GO-TO-MAT and RELAX/STAY cues as part of the non-follow routine regularly.
• Begin desensitization plan to walk out of the front door (see criteria steps).
• Watch video regularly to help assess and determine criteria setting.

Front door criteria steps

Begin your session by warming up the dog with a few open-and-close-door exercises.

• Exit the baby-gated area. Walk to the front door, open and close the front door, and return, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat several times.
• Exit the baby-gated area. Walk to the front door, open the door, step out and immediately back in, close the door and return, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat until the dog is unconcerned by the process.
• Exit the baby-gated area. Walk to the front door, open the door, step out for the duration of one second, close the door and return, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat at least ten times or until the dog is unconcerned by the process.
• Using remote video, watch the dog during absences and begin to increase duration in increments of seconds up to ten seconds. Use a variable ratio: sometimes longer durations, sometimes shorter. Repeat these rehearsals until the dog is completely unconcerned about the activity.
• Once you reach a duration of about ten seconds, switch to simply dead-bolting the front door and immediately returning (if you use a dead bolt). Repeat until the dog is completely uninterested by the activity.
• Using remote video, watch the dog during absences with the door locked and begin to increase duration in increments of seconds until you reach one minute. Use a variable ratio: sometimes longer durations, sometimes shorter. Repeat until the dog is completely uninterested by the activity.
• Once you reach a duration of one minute, you can jump time increments in larger segments of ten to twenty seconds. Use video to carefully monitor the dog’s body language.
• Once you achieve a fifteen-minute absence and the dog’s body language shows the absence is successful, you can jump time increments in larger segments of 20 to 60 seconds. Again, use video to carefully monitor the dog’s body language.

Build absence duration to 30 minutes or more, and make certain you incorporate all of the elements of a typical departure, such as garage doors or main apartment building doors. Also incorporate cues that may be significant, for example bringing a bag with you.

Phase Five

Preparation

• Use the GO-TO-MAT and RELAX/STAY cues as part of the non-follow routine regularly.
• Build on desensitization plan to increase duration absences through to maintenance.
• Use interactive feeding devices and FIND IT for feeding including during maintenance.
• Watch video regularly to help assess and determine criteria setting.

Duration build-up criteria steps

At this point, you are able to use the game of FIND IT when you leave, as well as other interactive feeding toys. Building on the 30-minute duration from Phase Four, absences will continue to gradually increase in increments of minutes up to four hours. Once you have built duration sufficiently, you can jump by increases of five minutes or more, but do use video monitoring to pay careful attention to body language.

Duration build-up will typically look something like this:

• Thirty minutes to one hour: Build in increments of three- to five-minute chunks.
• One to two hours: Build in increments of five- to fifteen-minute chunks.
• Two to four hours: Build in increments of fifteen- to thirty-minute chunks.

Maintenance can begin once you reach absences of two hours or more. Often, you can carry out absence maintenance at this level to ensure continued success without having to constantly vary the time intervals dramatically. I do suggest that you desensitize the dog fully to durations of up to four hours, if that’s your desired time frame in the future. I have found that, for most dogs, it’s an easy task to fade out the baby gate, and even the crate if one was used. But this must be done weeks or months down the line after the dog has had considerable success rehearsing the full length of an owner absence. When you fade out the confinement apparatus, all you need to do initially is leave it open. In time, you can completely disassemble it. If you see any regression when the gate is left open, then do some basic desensitization exercises with shorter durations or by adding additional feeding toys to the mix. Fortunately, regression here is fairly rare. Remember, it’s not necessary to fade out the baby gate or the crate. It’s an option, not a requirement.

Treatment Plan #2

Using the Treat & Train

Phase One

Preparation

• Review the house layout and set up an area to be used for training.
• Read all articles and written materials to familiarize yourself with the plan.
• Begin teaching the new cues of GO-TO-MAT and RELAX/STAY (review handout in Appendix 3).
• Acquire baby gate, x-pen or crate and interactive feeding toys, including the Treat & Train.

MAT criteria steps

1. Lure a GO-TO-MAT from right in front of the bed, rewarding each time. Repeat until you get five successful trials.
2. Use verbal cue and hand signal to get GO-TO-MAT from right in front of the bed. rewarding each successful trial.
3. Repeat until you get ten successful trials.
4. 3. Use verbal cue and hand signal to get GO-TO-MAT from one and two feet away, rewarding each successful trial. Repeat until you get ten successful trials.
5. Use verbal cue and hand signal to get GO-TO-MAT from three and four feet away, rewarding each successful trial. Repeat until you get ten successful trials.

RELAX/STAY criteria steps

Step 1:

If the criteria seem too high or too low in these steps, adjusted them accordingly. Unless directed otherwise, you will stand in place while facing your dog. Read through the steps once before you do them, so you understand the body directions.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for four seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step to the right and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step to the left and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step to the right and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take one step to the left and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take two steps back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for five seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and then turn right back around in place, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you clap your hands softly once, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you count out loud to five, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you clap your hands softly twice, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you count out loud to ten, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and then turn back in place, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you clap your hands softly three times, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back take half a step forward and then turn back in place, reward.

RELAX/STAY for five seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

Step 2:

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for five seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take five steps back and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps to the right and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps to the left and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and take one step to the right and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and take one step to the left and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for seven seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and take three steps away (still in view) and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back and walk three steps away, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back for five seconds and turn back around, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you clap your hands softly twice, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you kneel to the ground on one knee briefly in place and stand back up, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you count out loud to five, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you clap your hands softly twice, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk just past your dog (behind him slightly) and back into place, reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY for ten seconds, reward by tossing him a jackpot of a few treats and end the session.

Step 3:

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take five steps away and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for seven seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk into another room slightly out of view for one second and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps to the right and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps to the left and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for twelve seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk out of view for two seconds, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY for three seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk to an interior closet, open and close it quickly, and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for seven seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk out of view and count out loud for three seconds, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY for ten seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk out of view for two seconds, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY for one second, reward.

RELAX/STAY for five seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you turn your back for ten seconds and turn back around, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you do three jumping jacks, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you kneel to the ground on both knees briefly in place and stand back up, reward.

RELAX/STAY for two seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you kneel to the ground on both knees for two seconds in place and stand back up, reward.

RELAX/STAY for ten seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you clap your hands loudly twice, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk out of view and count out loud for five seconds, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY for five seconds, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take three steps away and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY while you walk to an interior closet, open and close it quickly, return and reward.

RELAX/STAY while you take five steps away and return, reward.

RELAX/STAY for fifteen seconds, reward by tossing a jackpot of a few treats and end the session.

Continue along these lines until you reach a RELAX/STAY of fifteen seconds from five feet away.

Later in the coming phases you will strengthen the STAY to one minute while out of view.

Phase Two

Preparation

• Build the MAT and RELAX/STAY up from beginning stages to 30 seconds and ten steps away
• Introduce and desensitize the Treat & Train
• Install the baby gate or x-pen if using and begin in-view desensitization

Introducing the Treat & Train

This is where you introduce the Treat & Train in your program. You can review the process of desensitizing the dog to the turnstile on page 43.

In-view criteria steps

These are sample steps and the criteria are written based on a dog with a moderate stress level. Adjust the steps to the specific dog, but keep the pace of the steps to ensure progress. Work on each step until the dog is able to handle the criteria level before you move on to the next step. Never push the dog to the point of anxiousness. On the other hand, if the dog is completely uninterested, increase the difficulty.

Step 1, all exits in view:

The dog must be settled and content at each level before you proceed to the next. If he isn’t, stay at that level and repeat it until he is comfortable. Hang out after each return so that each new exercise appears to be as close to a cold trial as possible. Vary the time increments, so each exit doesn’t jump in time; mix it up with some longer and some shorter increments.

Step 1 can be broken into two phases:

• Begin by placing the Treat & Train in the confinement area and have the dog lie down in front of it. Using the remote control, dispense from the Treat & Train a few times to keep the dog engaged.
• Gradually step out and back in, standing right by the baby gate—dispense most heavily when you are stepping out of the gate. Allow the dog to settle before you repeat this task. Spend plenty of time in the confinement area in between exits.
• Repeat this task, increasing in increments of seconds at a time until you reach one minute.
• Vary the time increments so you have some shorter durations and some longer ones.
• If the dog shows any signs of stress, stay at that time level until the dog is sufficiently desensitized to that plateau. Only then move on to the next task.

In the second phase, begin in the confinement area:

• Dispense a few times before you exit, but dispense most heavily while you are out of the confinement area. Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area while staying in view, and return in one minute. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing time for the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible.
• Once you reach a duration of about two or three minutes, you can switch from using the remote control to the automated dispense mode. For most dogs, starting at the 20-second ratio is comfortable, but if that’s too difficult for the dog, drop it to 10.
• Repeat the task of exiting and entering, increasing in increments of seconds and then minutes at a time until you reach a 30-minute duration. Leave the Treat & Train in the 20-second dispense mode for now.
• Vary the time increments so you have some shorter durations and some longer ones.
• If the dog shows any signs of stress, stay at that level for a while until the dog is sufficiently desensitized to that plateau. Only then move on to the next task.
• Using the remote control, turn off the Treat & Train for increments of a minute at a time toward the end of the session to allow the dog to have brief periods without the food dispensing.
• Once the dog is comfortable with a 30-minute absence at the 20-second dispense mode, raise the time dispense ratio on the Treat & Train to 30 seconds.

The dog should be relaxed and unfazed by the above absences before you proceed to the next step. This process is relatively quick for most dogs.

Step 2, exits are in partially obstructed view:

Begin in the confinement area:

• Activate the Treat & Train, which should now be set at the 30-second dispense ratio. Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area into an area partly obstructed from view, such as behind a kitchen counter or partially into a threshold of a doorway. Return immediately and pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle before the next exercise so that each exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible.
• Once the dog is comfortable with approximately fifteen minutes of partially obstructed-view absences, increase the dispense ratio on the Treat & Train to 45 seconds.
• Build duration in increments of minutes until you can spend 30 minutes outside the confinement area while in partially obstructed view. Make sure you pause long enough between exits.
• Vary the time increments so you have some shorter durations and some longer ones.
• If the dog shows any signs of stress, stay at that level for a while until the dog is sufficiently desensitized to that plateau. Only then move on to the next task.
• Using the remote control, turn off the Treat & Train for two minutes at a time toward the end of the session to let the dog to experience brief periods without the food dispensing.

Phase Three

Preparation

• Use the GO-TO-MAT and STAY cues as part of the non-follow routine regularly.
• Begin desensitization plan to out-of-view absences.
• Watch video to help determine baseline for future criteria setting.

Out-of-view criteria steps

• Begin in the confinement area. Activate the Treat & Train, which should now be set at 45 seconds. Have the remote control with you in the event you need to reward more frequently when stepping out of view. Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area and go to an area entirely out of view and return immediately. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds to allow the dog to settle before you repeat this task so that each exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible.
• Once the dog is successfully handling fifteen minutes of outof-view absences, raise the dispense rate on the Treat & Train to 60 seconds.
• Repeat the out-of-view absences, increasing in increments of seconds then minutes until you reach a duration of 30 minutes. Make sure you pause long enough between each exit.
• Vary the time increments so you have some shorter durations and some longer ones.
• If the dog shows any signs of stress, stay at that level until the dog is sufficiently desensitized to that plateau. Only then move on to the next task.
• Using the remote control, turn off the Treat & Train for increments of three minutes at a time toward the end of the session to let the dog experience brief periods without the food dispensing.

You will do the below steps once you have fully desensitized the dog to a 30-minute out-of-view absence in his confinement area. Mix up the steps once you accomplish some of the easier ones. Take the remote control with you so you can dispense most heavily at the hardest point of the task when needed.

• Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area and walk halfway to the front door while carrying your keys, and return. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat this task until the dog is completely uninterested.
• Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area and walk all the way to the front door without touching it while carrying your keys, and return. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat until the dog is completely uninterested.
• Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area and walk all the way to the front door and touch the door but not the door knob while carrying your keys, and return. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat until the dog is completely uninterested.
• Walk nonchalantly out of the baby-gated area and walk all the way to the front door, touch the doorknob, still carrying your keys, and return. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat until the dog is completely uninterested.
• Walk out of the baby-gated area and walk to the front door. Crack the front door open slightly, close it, and return immediately. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat until the dog is completely uninterested.
• Walk out of the baby-gated area to the front door. Open the front door halfway and close it, returning immediately. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat until the dog is completely uninterested.
• Walk out of the baby-gated area to the front door. Open the front door all the way, close it, and return immediately. Pause for 20 to 30 seconds, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat until the dog is completely uninterested.

By the end of this phase, you should be able to open and close the front door about ten to fifteen times in the span of 30 minutes without getting any stressful reaction from the dog. The Treat & Train will be running throughout the session at the 60 second rate of reinforcement.

Phase Four

Preparation

• Use the GO-TO-MAT and RELAX/STAY cues as part of the non-follow routine regularly.
• Begin desensitization plan to walk out of the front door (see criteria steps).
• Watch video regularly to help assess and determine criteria setting

Front door exercises

Begin your session by warming up the dog with a few open-and-close-door exercises. The Treat & Train should still be set at 60 seconds.

• Exit the baby-gated area. Walk to the front door, open and close the front door, and return, allowing the dog to settle before you repeat the task. Repeat several times.
• Exit the baby-gated area. Walk to the front door, open the door, step out and immediately back in, close the door and return allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat the above until the dog is unconcerned by the process
• Exit the baby-gated area. Walk to the front door, open the door, step out for the duration of one second, close the door, and return, allowing the dog to settle so that each new exercise is as close to a cold trial as possible. Repeat at least ten times or until the dog is unconcerned by the process
• Using remote video, watch the dog during absences and begin to increase duration in increments of seconds up to ten seconds. Use a variable ratio: sometimes longer durations, sometimes shorter. Repeat these rehearsals until the dog is completely unconcerned about the activity.
• Once you reach a duration of about ten seconds, switch to simply dead-bolting the front door, and immediately returning (if you use a dead bolt). Repeat until the dog is completely uninterested by this activity.
• Using remote video, watch the dog during absences with the door locked and begin to increase duration in increments of seconds up to one minute. Use a variable ratio: sometimes longer durations, sometimes shorter. Repeat until the dog is completely uninterested by the activity.
• Once you reach a duration of one minute, you can jump time increments in larger segments of ten to twenty seconds. Use video monitoring to pay careful attention to body language.
• Once you achieve a fifteen-minute absence and the dog’s body language shows the absence is successful, you can jump time increments can be jumped in larger segments of 20 to 30 seconds. Use video monitoring to pay careful attention to body language.
• Build absence duration to 30 minutes or more, and make certain you incorporate all of the elements of a typical departure, such as garage doors or main apartment building doors. Also incorporate cues that may be significant, for example bringing a bag with you.

Once you reach 30-minute absences and all exit protocols have been included, you can raise the dispense ratio on the Treat & Train to 120 seconds. Do watch the dog carefully via video when you do this, as this is a big jump.

Phase Five

Preparation

• Use the GO-TO-MAT and RELAX/STAY cues as part of the non-follow routine regularly.
• Build on desensitization plan to increase duration absences through to maintenance.
• Watch video regularly to help assess and determine criteria setting.

Criteria steps for duration build-up

At this point, the Treat & Train has been raised to 120 seconds and the dog is comfortably handling a 30-minute absence. Building on the 30-minute duration from Phase Four, continue to gradually increase absences in increments of minutes through to four hours. Once you have built enough duration, you can jump in increments of five minutes or more, but do pay careful attention to body language, preferably by monitoring video closely. Typically, the Treat & Train can be raised to a dispense rate of 300 seconds around the one-hour mark.

You can begin maintenance once you reach absences of two hours or more. Often, you can practice maintaining absences at this level to ensure continued success without having to constantly vary the time intervals dramatically. I do suggest you fully desensitize the dog to durations up to four hours if that’s the desired time frame for the future.

Duration build-up will typically look like this:

• Thirty minutes to one hour: Build in increments of three- to five-minute chunks.
• One to two hours: Build in increments of five- to fifteen-minute chunks.
• Two to four hours: Build in increments of fifteen- to thirty-minute chunks.

Around the two-hour point, it’s important to teach the dog that it’s no emergency if the Treat & Train runs out or is turned off. Using the remote control, turn off the Treat & Train from outside about ten to fifteen minutes before you return. Build that up to half an hour and eventually to longer still. This is rarely a problem for dogs, but I do think it’s an important step, just in case the Treat & Train runs out of food, gets jammed, or runs out of battery.