LIVING IN THE SOLUTION

“If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went.”

You’ve been such good sports by taking on all this responsibility and learning technical jargon, it’s time to offer a “gimme.” The following is a list of common canine problems and solutions. It is impossible to address every permutation of a problem and its potential causes, so being observant is always part of the fix. You will need to have a handle on the following:

Desensitization

As you recall from socialization, a dog’s inability to control its reactions to people, animals, objects, places, and sounds is a fairly common problem that can result in:

■ Aggressive behaviors—barking and lunging to attack.

■ Fearful behaviors—trembling, urinating, fleeing, hiding, or shutting down.

■ Other behaviors may include panting, whining, howling, and spinning.

To treat these, we incrementally expose the dog to the triggering stimulus in a nonthreatening way. With time and practice, a neutral to positive response can be formed.

Redirection

Always have something at the ready to grab the dog’s attention as it begins to react. That may be a reward or in acute conditions even a negative reinforcer, such as a spray from a water bottle. The idea is to “snap” the dog out of the dangerous mode it is threatening to go into.

Compassionate Corrections

Always guide the dog to a reward or a more relaxed state. Even the aforementioned spray from a water bottle, while not pleasant, can serve to distract a dog from going into flight or fight.

Leash Pressure

The leash is a way we communicate with dogs. A well-trained dog and skilled handler “talk” to each other through the leash. Developing leash skills takes nothing but attentive practice. Any pull should be subtle and short, but never yank or snap the leash. To cue the dog, it is most effective to pull upward and less is always more. Think of it as a tap on the shoulder. A subtle tap will get someone’s attention just as well as a smack. Should yanking feel necessary to restrain a dog in dealing with common occurrences and situations, desensitization and handling work is required.

Tools

A tension gate (similar to a baby gate) or a crate in the home is helpful for desensitizing a dog, because either one separates the dog from the triggering stimulus. Other tools should include treats, shorter leads (four-foot nylon leashes), chew toys, tug toys, and in some cases, longer training leashes (fifteen to thirty feet), as well as head halter collars.

HOME REACTIVITY

Home reactivity refers to dogs triggered by children, other animals, or even objects like vacuum cleaners inside the home. By “reactivity,” I do not necessarily mean aggression but barking, skittish behavior, and hyper concern all constitute reactivity. To properly limit the risk and reactivity, a tension gate is very helpful to allow a dog to be safely exposed to its perceived nemesis.

Put the dog behind a gate to sequester it from the trigger, but keep the trigger close enough so the dog is aware of the upsetting presence. Offer a toy or chew stick to play with and reward calm behavior. Once there is an established level of calm from the dog, remove the gate and use the down/stay command with the dog on a leash. Be careful of any flare-ups, and closely monitor the interaction between the dog and the stimulus—i.e., the other dog, child, or object. Once the dog is nonreactive, welcome him to sit or lie closer to the stimulus but first make sure he is not fixating on the trigger. Slowly (on leash) allow the dog to investigate by politely sniffing the object, person, or animal while being closely watched.

PULLING/HALTING ON LEASH

Dogs pull for many understandable reasons: They are faster than people, they engage the world more enthusiastically than we do, and they have their own agenda as to where they wish to go. The number one reason dogs pull is because it works, and fixing this is a matter of not permitting it. For a dog that is a particularly tough walk, get a hold of a head halter collar to go with your four-foot leash.

Head Halter Collars

The head halter is an excellent tool for pullers, reactive dogs, and hyper dogs. It goes around the dog’s head and over the nose. It is similar to a horse’s halter. It attaches to the leash from just under the dog’s chin and allows the handler to lead the dog from the cockpit (its nose). Some people irrationally balk at using halter collars because they mistake them for muzzles, which are used on aggressive dogs. Although the halter attaches to the dog’s muzzle it is not a muzzle, as dogs can open their mouths, which allows them to consume treats and play with tug toys or balls (also recommended to ease the transition). Dogs will often rub and paw at the halter to get it off their face. It is an adjustment not dissimilar to that of a child who resists wearing a retainer. Start by using the halter for short periods and keep the pace brisk, as dogs are less prone to fuss with the halter when moving at a faster clip.

Warning

Once a dog gets into pawing at the halter, it can become an obsession. Should the dog paw at the collar, give the leash a gentle shake. Issue a warning like “ehh-ehh,” and redirect him to a toy or treat, or begin to jog so he acclimates. This adjustment can take anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks.

Pulling/Lunging

The first thing to do with a pulling dog is to stop in your tracks and wait. Give the dog time to figure out that pulling is getting him nowhere. This may have to be repeated any number of times before he catches on. I’d guesstimate that this number is roughly equivalent to the amount of times the pulling was successful.

Slow the Walk

Some dogs begin by subtly pulling and inching ahead or slowly changing direction. A little leash pressure and course correction helps, but simply slowing down, not giving in, and letting the dog fall in line is more effective.

The Active Walk

The active walk combines walking and the use of the heeling technique, as described in Chapter 7, “Command Central.” This helps the dog’s concentration, offers him some treats to work for, and slowly lets him know that you are leading. With time, the dog will recognize that his job is to be a good partner by walking calmly alongside you. It is also a great way to work some training into a walk.

Check Yourself

Frustration sets in pretty quickly in dealing with a pulling dog. Tension can quickly manifest, and before you know it, the walker is unwittingly exerting excessive leash pressure. That leash is a lightning rod, so give calm to get calm, and allow the leash some slack.

Prevent Defense

Do not leash up an excited dog and expect a calm walk. Encourage a calm mind state by having the dog sit as the leash is put on. It’s good practice to have the dog stay for a moment before heading out the door.

HALTING

Halting is the opposite of pulling. This is when a dog puts the brakes on and refuses to walk. It is very common in puppies and dogs that lack confidence.

Motivating Movement

Toys, treats, enthusiasm, and the company of other dogs can be just the ticket. Once the dog is moving, look for signs that the halting is coming. Dogs tend to fall into routines as they go into halt or even shutdown (remember Harry the bulldog?). Identifying the signs enables one to pull the dog through the funk by breaking into a trot or run. Always continue to motivate a dog with an enthusiasm that says, “Hey, we’re having fun.” An upbeat attitude can keep the dog from getting stuck in the quicksand. You might also try walking at a faster clip or jogging.

Stay Strong

Do not falter when that meditative two-hour walk just isn’t happening. Start with short walks to build time and confidence. Take more walks, which can be as short as a trip to the mailbox. Short walks help to build confidence for longer walks, and the more the dog is on leash with you, the more it will catch on to the joys of walking.

I used to take my friend’s uneasy dog to a deli where the owner would give him a bite of roast beef and I would mark it with the word “deli.” After a week, if I grabbed the leash and said, “Deli,” the dog would all but bound there. Bring treats.

Danger Zones

Temporarily stay away from “bad places.” Should a dog freeze up in a specific place, he has associated this spot with halting. Pick him up and take him a few dozen yards away and begin walking. Once some progress has been made, return to the scene of the crime and move him through.

GARBAGE MOUTH

Eating feces (coprophagy) may be disgusting to us, but it’s natural for some dogs. And a chicken bone on the sidewalk? No one can blame them. Some dogs just can’t say no to anything that has a smell and fits in their mouth.

Prevent Defense

Check with a veterinarian to make sure the dog’s diet is providing the sufficient nutrients, as a deficiency can occasionally be the cause. Many dogs will eat their own feces around the backyard or at a dog park. Monitor this behavior and do your best to keep the area devoid of fecal matter, because a dog can’t eat what’s not there. Redirect with the “leave it” command. When your dog encounters an edible that is not “kosher,” say, “Leave it,” walk the dog away from temptation, and then reward.

I trained a dog that ate goose excrement near a pond where she was able to run freely off leash. The first thing I did was to teach the “leave it” command, keeping the dog on a twenty-foot training leash. The next step was to have the owner keep the dog away from the pond for two weeks. After the two weeks were up, they returned to the pond, where the owner monitored the dog for any attempts at unwanted eating. After a few visits, the behavior ceased.

BARKING AT THE DOORBELL AND COMPANY

The number one perpetuator of this behavior is the dog owner who barks back at the dog. “Shush! Stop it! Stop barking! Knock it off !” delivered at decibel levels louder than the dog’s is not a deterrent. The message to the dog is: “When the bell rings, we all begin to bark.” Other culprits are inadequate socialization, insufficient exercise, and no understanding of the “down” or “stay” command.

The Doorbell Game

It is not bad for a dog to bark and effectively say, “Hey, someone’s here,” when the doorbell rings. Excessive barking and carrying on is another thing. The protocol should be to thank the dog for alerting you that there is a guest at the door. The dog should then be led to a designated spot and be able to wait while the guest is greeted. Once the guest is inside, the four-legged family member should be called over to say hello.

■ Use the “go to spot” command followed by “stay.”

■ The destination spot should be a few yards from the front door and provide an unobstructed line of sight for the dog.

■ The spot should be something the dog likes to sit on that is accessible. Do not use anything that requires climbing into.

Desensitization

Use the “go to spot” command followed by “stay” and have someone ring the doorbell. Moderate barking in response to the ring is fine so long as the dog stays in the designated spot. Reward the dog for staying and being less reactive to the sound.

How to Play the Game

Instruct the dog to stay in the designated place. At first, use the leash to bring the dog back to the spot if he moves off it. Holding eye contact with the dog, walk backward toward the door, return, and reward. Repeat, but this time knock on your own door and/or ring the bell yourself before returning and rewarding. As progress is made, eye contact won’t be necessary and you can try allowing other people to ring the bell. To raise the stakes, ring the doorbell multiple times and swing the door open. When the dog stays, reward and repeat. Should the dog still be struggling, do it quietly and retain eye contact. As a final exam, have a short conversation with an invisible person outside the door. Reward the dog for positive behavior.

Once the dog is desensitized to the sound of the doorbell and can stay in his spot, we move to a real-world rehearsal by turning the dog loose. While he is freely roaming the house, ring the doorbell and signal your dog to go to the spot, or happily take him there if he’s still learning. The dog may bark to say, “Hey! Someone’s here!” to which you reply, “Thanks,” and show the dog the reward. Give the dog a moment to calm down and issue a “stay” before going to the door. Open the door, have a real or imaginary conversation, close the door, return, and reward. Have everyone who lives in the house ring the doorbell when they come home.

Once eighty percent success has been achieved, practice the entire ritual and delay the reward until the end of the exercise.

Warning

Maintain realistic expectations by asking guests to avoid loud, excited greetings of the dog. Sessions should be short and upbeat.

Cheat

Keep the dog on a leash and use the “sit” command as company enters the home.

HYPERACTIVITY

Symptoms

Jumping on people, constant attention seeking, pushy behavior, rough play, pestering for affection, as well as excessive nipping, mouthing, barking, whimpering, etc. Not hard to identify.

Warning

Dogs may be extra-prone to behaving this way around kids. At times, kids’ voices and demonstrative gestures heat up the play response, which keeps dogs in excited states.

Culprits

Inadequate exercise, a dog too isolated from people and other dogs, and a lack of structured activities.

Prevention

The first line of defense is structured exercise. Exercise the dog adequately with jogging, fetch, tug-of-war, and any activity where agility can come into play. Do not roughhouse with the dog. Even when a dog is by itself, monitor energy levels and do your best to avoid a ramp-up. Simply keeping your dog company can do wonders for bringing down energy levels and preventing them from spiking in the first place. Always exercise the dog before guests arrives.

Commands

“Down” and “stay” are the biggies. After exercise, give the dog a few minutes to unwind. Bring him to his bed or place of rest and have him stay. Expect whining or barking, but don’t give in; a dog needs to learn to process anxious feelings in order to settle down.

Gate/Crate

When “down/stay” isn’t doing the trick, gating or crating a dog can help it unwind. Use proper judgment in finding a calm place.

The Turn-away

Some dogs get the message to calm down if you simply turn your back and ignore them. Turn away, and give the dog a minute to settle down.

Leash on in the House

Keeping a leash on the dog in the house prevents it from jumping on people and pestering. “No,” “off,” and “ehh-ehh” are useful in concert with using the leash to stop unwanted behaviors. Use “sit” to guide the dog to a reward. Keeping a leash on when company is present is not a bad idea for some dogs.

Warning

Hyperactive dogs are typically difficult to discourage, so keep your cool. Never keep a leash on a dog that is not being monitored, as leashes can get snagged and dogs can choke themselves.

When I have guests over, my dogs get excited. I allow them to greet friends, and I ask my friends not to wind them up. I put the dogs in a down/stay and give them each a frozen rubber toy that holds peanut butter so they will be occupied while we suffer through a Giants game, for example. By the time they finish the treat, they are calm and acclimated to the company. From there, they can do as they please. They may interact with my friends, but at this point, they are perfectly well behaved.

BEGGING/WHINING

Do not feed a dog when it begs. Ignore begging and whining, and the dog will realize they do not work.

Prevention

Having a dog earn a meal via training can be vital. When preparing food, use “sit” and “stay” to keep the dog out of the kitchen and at a manageable distance. Always have your dog sit before feeding, and hold the food bowl for a three-count before placing it on the floor.

When you’re eating, use the “sit” and “stay” commands in a designated spot so the dog makes the association as to where it is supposed to be while people are eating. Don’t forget to reward the dog; you may be getting up and rewarding every few minutes at first. With each passing meal, extend the time between rewards until you can sit through an entire meal uninterrupted.

Cheat

Give the dog a treat that takes some time to consume. Freezing the previously mentioned rubber toy filled with peanut butter makes the treat last. Have the dog consume the treat in a crate or behind a gate during meals.

HOUSE TRAINING

Time and Space

Timing is key. Know when the dog’s bladder is full and have him in the appropriate place when he is ready to relieve himself. (Thank you, Professor Obvious.)

In or Out

When dogs are young, elderly, disabled, sick, or confined to an apartment that offers no outdoor outlet, pee pads may be necessary. For healthy dogs, pee pads give the message that it’s acceptable for a dog to relieve itself indoors so I’d advise against them.

Rules

Never scold a dog for going in the house, under any circumstance, or the dog will look for remote areas of the home to do its business. Punishing an animal for going to the bathroom is abusive.

Observe

There’s that word again. After the dog is done eating and drinking, figure out roughly how long it takes until he needs to go, then take him outside.

Tips

When you are not at home, a dog should have its own place, like a crate or gated area. It won’t compromise the integrity of its space unless forced to. Upon returning, take the dog outside immediately to relieve itself.

Prevention

No unattended play indoors, since excited dogs are more prone to relieve themselves.

Consistency

When using pads, keep them in the same place so an association gets formed with a particular spot. For puppies, close to the front door works, since they’re one step away from the great outdoors.

Shaping

If the dog makes an effort to hit the target but misses, the effort is still worthy of a reward.

Scenting

Keeping a little urine on the pad or taking the dog to the same spot outside is a way the dog can identify this as the place to go.

Off-target

Keep dogs away from areas and furniture where unwanted marking is occurring. If there is a certain spot on the rug, roll it up or keep the dog out of that room until properly house trained.

Other Culprits

Urinary tract infections, dietary changes, separation anxiety, excitement, or submissive urination can impede progress.

FOOD AGGRESSION/RESOURCE GUARDING

Warning

For anything other than minor issues, please see a professional. It’s natural for dogs to be protective around toys and food, so food aggression/resource guarding can be a difficult issue.

Desensitization

It does a world of good to regularly hand-feed your dog, have the dog earn its meals via training, and put treats into the dog’s bowl while it is eating. Practice the “leave it” and “drop it” command with chews and toys so it becomes accustomed to relinquishing things upon your request.

Respect the Dog’s Boundaries

Less is more in this case. Make only necessary contact while the dog is eating. You should not be afraid to approach your dog, either. My rule is a dog should be no more tolerant than a person would be if someone were to pet her while she ate: I don’t expect the dog to like it, but aggression is unacceptable.

While the dog is eating, stand a few yards away and say, “Hi, puppy!” before tossing a few treats. Repeat this every ten to fifteen seconds until the meal is finished. Perform this with each and every meal until there are no signs of guarding or aggression. It may take anywhere from a week to a couple of months, so patience is a needed virtue.

With time, move closer to the bowl when you drop the treats. Monitor tension levels and keep pushing the boundary, so long as it doesn’t elicit any aggressive or defensive responses. In approaching a highly reactive dog, it is wise to remain on the opposite side of a gate or tether the dog.

Once you can stand next to the dog’s bowl while the dog is eating, greet her and offer a treat from your hand or a lick of peanut butter off a spoon and then walk away. Return and repeat until the meal is finished. When the dog is comfortable with this, stand next to her, say, “Hiya, puppy,” and gently touch her back. As the dog looks up, offer a treat.

After she’s eaten, have her walk a few feet away from her food bowl and sit. Pick up and handle her food bowl as she watches. Place a treat in the bowl and have her consume the treat while you hold the bowl. From there, place another treat in the bowl and put the bowl on the floor in front of the dog. When she finishes, say, “Good dog,” have her sit, pick up the bowl, and place another treat in it. Perform enough repetitions to feel comfortable before moving on. Finally, while the dog is eating some mundane dry food, place a more exciting food (such as a piece of chicken) in the bowl. Once you’re able to contend with the above scenarios, guard against relapses by periodically touching your dog and dropping a treat while the dog is eating.

Anxieties/Compulsions/Obsessions

Excessive and strange behavior patterns can surface for no apparent reason. These behaviors run the gamut from odd to comical to exhausting, disturbing, and harmful. A few common ones follow. If your particular issue isn’t on the list, pretend that it is by identifying with the family of behavior. When I first got my dogs, I was easily convinced that any hiccup was unique to my dog. Dog anxieties, compulsions, and obsessions fall into categories of behavior and standard treatments do apply.

Signs

Excessive barking, licking or chewing of self or objects, biting at the air, chasing tail or spinning, whining, scratching of self or objects, chasing, staring or barking at objects, shadows, reflections, digging on hard surfaces (floors), fixating on objects, destruction of household items, marking, pacing, and thousands of others.

Warning

The first thing is to visit the vet to rule out medical problems. Do not punish or scold a dog for compulsive or obsessive behaviors, as it is likely already stressed. Do not coddle or baby the dog when it acts out.

Culprits

Inadequate exercise, boredom, lack of socialization and structure.

Treatment

The first treatment is always increased exercise with the owners. Long walks replete with commands, playing games, and the general redirection of anxious energies onto exercise are the first steps. In many cases, the pattern is a script being followed, so breaking the routine is essential. Additional socialization is also typically needed. Trips to the dog park will help and setting up playdates with other dogs can thwart the onset of these “cabin fever”–type symptoms.

Keep your dog company and try to catch it as it enters into its compulsive script. The dog may offer a window where redirection can occur. For example, a dog that licks compulsively will often stare at the target body part before commencement. It is possible to redirect the dog’s attention onto something like a loud squeaking toy and lure it into some fetch. Enormous patience can be required here; once the dog goes into the “zone,” it can take a while to unwind.

I once worked with a Westie named Molly who would bark uncontrollably at reflections being cast on the kitchen ceiling. Her bowl was made of stainless steel, and whenever there was light in the kitchen, it would reflect off the bowl onto the ceiling. Using a matte plastic bowl did not do the trick, because there were always reflections from incoming light. I took Molly just outside the kitchen and had her sit/stay before introducing her favorite ball. With Molly watching from just beyond the kitchen, I held her bowl in my hands and used it to create a momentary reflection off the ceiling. Before she could react, the reflection was gone, but she still wanted to engage the compulsion. She was torn between the reflection and her desire to play ball with me. After creating a few more reflections, she was far less reactive and finally, she sat quietly. As a reward, I tossed the ball into the living room and played with her some. I continued to make the reflections last longer, and would only toss the ball when she was non-reactive. Finally, we found our way into the kitchen and practiced some more. Within an hour, she was good. Molly’s owner continued to practice with her for about a week before the reaction was entirely gone.

SEPARATION ANXIETY

Separation anxiety is as it sounds—a condition where dogs have difficulty being separated from their owner. Very often, these dogs react stressfully to the departure of anyone they know. In minor cases, it can be endearing. A dog we work with named Gustav (pictured here) appears to have separation anxiety from people he just met. He’ll pull on the leash and watch near strangers walk away as if he knows they’re headed off on some fateful voyage. What makes this okay is that once the person is out of sight, Gustav transitions very quickly from his state of longing to his usual “what are we doing now, right now, this moment is everything” disposition. When dogs do not make this transition, they often go into states of panic and stay there. Please make sure to find your way down to “Jealous Behavior,” as the two very often go hand in hand.

Warning

For severe issues, please consult a professional.

Culprits

Previous abandonment, spoiling, insufficient exercise, lack of socialization, no “job.”

When a dog sees a door closing behind a person, it has no knowledge that the person is ever coming back. The moment someone is out of view and scent range, to the dog, that person is potentially gone forever. Considering dogs’ domesticated dependence on us, it is not unreasonable that anxiety can occur in such a situation. Many rescue dogs that were previously abandoned are predisposed to this anxiety/panic disorder. In such cases, their behavior would appear to be perfectly reasonable and entirely rational. Among dogs that weren’t abandoned, those who are coddled and spoiled are prone to separation anxiety. Allowing a dog to be all over its owner is a form of spoiling, as is a dog that does not “work” in some capacity to earn its keep. Work for a companion dog entails going for walks, training, and having something to do (even if that means lying on its bed, like Maya) in enough circumstances where the dog feels it has a function. That said, the major culprit in separation anxiety is owners who constantly coddle their dogs, and we’ve all seen them. The dogs are constantly in their owner’s lap and follow them everywhere. The owner often finds this cute and equates this behavior with love. It’s not. It is a dog feeling unsafe and worried. This behavior only worsens with time.

Separation anxiety is torturous for the animal experiencing the problem, and conscientious owners can be held hostage by it. Neighbors will be privy to constant barking and howling when the dog’s owner runs to the grocery store. Behaviors range from moderate whining and barking to excessive barking and crying that literally does not stop. When left alone for too long, dogs will often injure themselves and destroy the household. I’ve seen dogs destroy their teeth by attempting to chew their way out of metal crates. I even worked with a dog that jumped out of a second-story window. They also soil their environments and take on all sorts of compulsive behaviors in an effort to distract themselves from the emotional discomfort.

Separation anxiety can be cured. Dogs can learn a sense of independence and security as well as they can learn commands. Predictably, it begins with the dog being left alone in very small doses and building time as you go. The greatest challenge often lies with the owner who has confused a dog’s hyper-dependence with love. It is sometimes very difficult for a person to let go of a dog for any stretch of time. In some cases, separation anxiety exposes the codependent nature of the owner, as loving a dog is always safe. In these cases, it is especially important to remember that the dog feels unduly burdened and is in a perpetual state of panic. To love a dog is to allow it a measure of independence.

Treatment

Always exercise the dog before you leave the house, for two reasons: 1) to bring down energy levels; and 2) the dog will need to be crated or gated, and at first this may feel confining. Exercise will allow the dog to associate coming home with resting and unwinding.

Crate/Gate Training

It will be necessary to crate or gate the dog in a small room. (Crate/gate training is described in Chapter 10, “Tips, Tools, and Tidbits.”)

Desensitization

A dog must be able to occupy itself and cope with being alone. In desensitizing and reconditioning, the initial exposure to being alone should be short and successful before time is added.

To begin: with the dog crated or behind a gate, walk around while still in view. When you go out of sight, make a phone call so the dog can hear your voice.

From there, quietly go in and out of a room just beyond the dog’s view. Progress to walking out of the door for less than a minute. As the dog’s confidence builds, you can add time accordingly. Build with blocks of five to ten minutes and work up to an hour.

It is advisable to take advantage of weekends so you can train throughout the day. There is no such thing as a saturation point in working on separation anxiety—for the dog, anyway. When I’ve worked with extreme cases, I will take the dog out for a ten-minute walk every hour, followed by crating, and then have the owners leave for ten minutes.

Cheat

Always have a rotation of special chews and frozen treats when crating the dog.

The “stay” command is effective for working with a dog that is already triggered. It is necessary to show the dog that it’s safe to be apart, even if it is just a few feet. Preferably, the dog should stay on a dog bed, in a crate, or in a gated area when the initial separation occurs. Offering a chew stick will keep the dog occupied. Remember, draw on your patience and be disciplined enough to ignore any protestations.

A dog with separation anxiety must not be allowed to sleep in its owner’s bed, with no exceptions. Even if the dog panics when kept in a separate room, the transition can begin by crating the dog in the bedroom before moving it just outside the bedroom door and eventually into another room. Try placing a gate in the bedroom doorway and putting the dog bed on the other side so the dog can retain line of sight.

In many cases, a dog’s anxiety levels will rise when it sees its people readying to leave the house. Watching you get dressed, grab your keys, and take purposeful strides toward the door can panic a dog. To desensitize the dog, simply perform some of these activities and don’t leave. When actually leaving, pretend you hate long goodbyes, since big and extended departures only add to the anxiety. Just leave without fanfare and try not to look back. The same principles hold true upon returning. Do not make a show of it. The goal is to communicate that comings and goings are no big deal.

Another ticket out of the hell of separation anxiety is socialization. Exposing a dog to other people and other dogs expands its world. This experience can have a profound impact on its well-being. I suggest hiring a dog walker who will take the dog out with a pack, and try to convince friends and family to take the dog for a walk.

In my travels I’ve noticed that people working from home often end up with dogs that have separation anxiety. It is essential for these people to get needed time apart from their best friend. Building relationships with fellow dog owners and tending to each other’s dogs is great for dogs and helps owners manage their schedules better. Hitting the dog park allows dogs to explore the world away from their owner, even while the owner is present. It may require a gentle nudge to get your dog to mingle, so be prepared to initiate the socializing by playing with other dogs if yours is behaving like a “cling-on.”

Separation anxiety has become pandemic in this country, and the solution is largely common sense. While dogs are supportive they should not be our support systems.

AGGRESSION/TERRITORIAL BEHAVIOR

Warning

I do not wish to directly advise anyone with a dog that has been genuinely aggressive toward people. I can say that these dogs are not hopeless, but without being able to physically see the dog, I cannot in good conscience provide much guidance. I strongly encourage those individuals to contact a professional. I have worked with many aggressive dogs that have gone on to have full lives without incident. I emphatically suggest researching a trainer who has proven success with this issue.

For the sake of this writing, I am equating aggression and territorial behavior with strong reactivity that easily eclipses what I described in the “home reactivity” section.

Some dogs are more reactive than others. It is that simple. Among reactive dogs, aggression is just one of the available options among flight, fight, and freeze. It does not say anything negative about the dog’s character.

Common Examples

On- or off-leash aggression, either inside or outside the home, toward dogs, people, small animals, children, and objects—skateboards, vehicles, and the vacuum, of course.

Desensitization

Typically, dogs that have aggressive reactions can be reconditioned through normal exposure as long as they are kept at a safe distance. Use redirection techniques around the triggering stimulus. Pace and patience are everything, so go slowly. For dogs that experience introduction aggression, see Chapter 8, “Just to Be Social,” and reference the sections “Intros and Outros” and “My Dog Is Trouble.”

Tip

Owners have a tendency to heighten the dog’s reaction by being nervous. Although it is an understandable response, give calm to get calm, and keep about a foot of slack on the leash. Commands (provided the dog has a sound handle on them) can override some aggressive and territorial tendencies.

Culprits

Lack of socialization and inadequate exercise. Aggression/territorial behavior is a learned socialization issue wherein dogs have misunderstood their role, not been properly acclimated to their environment, or reacted in a justifiable way to abuse and violence. Be aware of environments that are not appropriate for your dog, as some dogs are generally fine but have particular trouble in dog parks or in crowds and similar high-energy places. While I don’t normally support outright avoidance, depending on how challenged the dog is, sometimes the simple solution is to avoid these places and situations.

JEALOUS BEHAVIOR

Some dogs will attempt to claim possession of their owners and consider anyone who wishes to spend time with them a threat. It is not uncommon for a dog to dislike a new boyfriend/girlfriend; I’ve even worked with a few dogs that took a clear side in a marriage. A threatened dog might take on the role of protector and will be reactive toward the exchange of affection between a man and a woman. These behaviors are highly common in dogs with separation anxiety but “jealousy” can be a stand-alone issue.

Symptoms

Constantly rubbing against the owner, sitting too close to the owner, growling or snapping at other people or animals that enter the owner’s proxemic space, policing other animals or children in the home, and stealing toys or food. Dogs with jealousy issues are always vying for their owner’s attention and often become reactive when their owner shows affection toward another person or animal.

Culprits

Spoiling a dog and insufficient socialization are often the cause, as well as owners who are unaware of the message they are sending in the daily activities with their dog.

Treatment

Setting up boundaries is a key. Have a dog sit/stay in a destination spot with the leash on, and reward even a moment’s patience while you show affection or interest in another dog or person. Do not test the dog by becoming exceptionally demonstrative or make baby talk. Add time as you go. Crate/gates may be used. Consistently have the dog spend time with other dogs and people, both separately and together.

Although it may seem small, I’ve noticed that literally all the people I’ve worked with who have jealous dogs are terrible walkers. Without exception, they let the dog lead. The dog is the first one out the door, on and off the elevator, and generally walks ahead of the person. Please be mindful of this and try to notice where the dog may be getting the message that it needs to be in the role of guardian.

NOTHING TO FEAR

Confidence is a skill that can be cultivated. I’ve helped dogs get over issues ranging from aquaphobia to fears of horses, brooms, thunder, and even spoons. The most common misstep people make is attempting to allay the dog’s concern by consoling it with kind words and affection. While well-intended, baby talk and conciliatory petting often communicate that the fear is real and the response appropriate.

Desensitizing

An owner’s support comes from not sharing in this fear and, as per usual, by confidently but slowly exposing the dog to the trigger.

Generic Fears

Fears of loud vehicles, thunder, and fireworks are common.

Treatment

Using thunder as an example: With the dog on a leash, do not let it run to a hiding place. Maintain a happy attitude and monitor tension levels. Redirect the dog’s attention onto some worthwhile treats and attempt to play with the dog. Tug toys, for whatever reason, have worked especially well for me. Have realistic expectations. Some dogs will never be thrilled that the sky is booming and that’s okay.

Practice desensitization by cranking up some music while you play with your dog. Bang on a table now and again, and be sure to play with the dog to create a positive association.

Fears of Objects

Skateboards and vacuum cleaners head this list, but it includes any common item that makes its share of noise, such as blenders, lawn mowers, and even running water.

Treatment

Desensitize and redirect: Objects with wheels and noisy appliances can inspire fear in a dog. Desensitize by first exposing the dog to the object while it is not in use. Reward the dog for not reacting, and once it is comfortable around the object, momentarily introduce the triggering sound. Reward again. Build some tolerance to the sound and then walk by the noisy object with your dog. Once the dog is successfully performing a walk-by, try to see if the dog can be comfortable with the sound from a reasonable distance (distance depends on the object; a lawn mower is typically more threatening than a blender) for an extended period of time. Once the dog is more comfortable, use the sit/stay command around the trigger.

Be very generous with rewards when desensitizing. Having top-notch toys at the ready when a vacuum is turned on is a good idea.

Fear of Riding in Cars

Desensitizing

With the car engine off, have the dog get in and out of the vehicle, and be ready with treats or toys. Once this is mastered, get in the car with treats in hand. The dog will likely consider joining you. Once inside, turn the engine on and off a few times before letting the dog out, provided it is not terrified. Lure the dog back into the car with treats, and when the dog hops in, start the car and drive a very short distance. As the dog gains confidence, try a lap around the block and go from there. Close destinations such as dog parks will help create positive associations.

Aquaphobia for Dogs: Fear of Hoses and Faucets

A dog may have a fear of water, but in nearly all cases, hoses, faucets, the sound of loud running water (the shower and drawing a bath), and getting in the bath are what frighten the dog.

Desensitizing

The aim is to get the dog into a dry tub. For this, lure or bribe or manipulate your dog with treats. When the dog is comfortable with being in the tub, run the faucet until there is an inch or two of water. Add water accordingly. Getting a dog used to being in the tub with running water is no small task; frankly, it is a big support job. It is one of those rare instances when coddling, holding, and continually praising the dog actually sends the right message and works effectively.

Tip

Dogs are often more afraid of the faucet than the water. Fill the tub before the dog enters the bathroom. Should you need to run the faucet, have the dog face away from it.

Hoses

An active hose can spook a dog, so turning it on and hunting the dog down is a no-no. Allow the dog to sniff and investigate the hose when it’s not running. Introduce the running water slowly, and redirect the dog primarily with toys and secondarily with treats. Once the dog is getting wet, hold him and offer support. It is best to begin by wetting the dog’s backside. Before long, this can become a favorite activity.

SENSITIVITY TRAINING

Some dogs are simply touch-sensitive. Many do not take well to being inspected by the vet or brushed by a groomer. Always make sure there is nothing physically wrong that is causing the dog pain.

Cautionary Tale

Miniature poodles have curly hair and not fur, and this coat does not shed. A client of mine used a shedding brush intended to shear shedding fur from short-coated dogs. The brushings were painful, and this dog was now afraid of all brushing.

Redemption Tale

We purchased the appropriate brush and got to work. To desensitize the traumatized poodle, I put her on leash while holding a fistful of treats. I let the dog nibble from my hand as I merely showed her the brush for a few seconds. I then touched her with the smooth backside of the brush as she continued nibbling from my half-closed fistful of small treats. The dog was reactive to a degree, but each session lasted maybe two minutes, with ten-minute breaks until I was able to brush her with the smooth side. In the attempts that followed, I managed a few strokes without the treats. I would say it was a little over an hour before the reactiveness was gone and we were able to easily brush the dog’s hair.

Any touch sensitivity that a dog may exhibit can be treated in this fashion so long as one is patient. In many cases, toys will work far better than treats. You need to be ready to experiment.